L I O C O

NEWSLETTER 2007

INTRODUCTION

LIOCO (pronounced lee-oko) is the result of a years-long discussion between Matt Licklider, a seasoned wine import specialist, and Kevin O’Connor, wine director at the esteemed Spago-Beverly Hills about whether or not California could produce site-driven wines. What is a site-driven wine? It is a wine that says: I came from this place only, and could not have come from anywhere else.

Believing we could achieve this in California, and drawing inspiration from our favorite European wine hamlets, we founded LIOCO. Our focus is on naturally fermented, stainless-steel, vineyard-designate Chardonnay and gently treated, vineyard-designate Pinot Noir. We select vineyards and/or specific “blocks” within vineyards with unique character--places with the right sun exposure, air flow, water drainage, soil and temperature. Then we simply shepherd the grapes from bud to bottle in the least intrusive way possible.

Our adherence to this principled approach ensures that the wines we offer you are true. These are pure, unadulterated expressions of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from some of California’s most pedigreed soils.

The vine and the wine it produces are two great mysteries. Alone in the vegetable kingdom, the vine makes the true savor of the earth intelligible to man. With what fidelity it makes the translation! It senses, then expresses, in its clusters of fruit the secrets of the soil. The flint, through the vine, tells us that it is living, fusible, a giver of nourishment. Only in wine does the ungrateful chalk pour out its golden tears. -–Colette

VINTAGE 2006: THE YEAR OF THE GROWER

The 2006 vintage was a year of extremes and it would keep North Coast growers on their toes. The year began with deluge in Napa and Sonoma, which made for dramatic media fodder but did little damage to the dormant vines. The rains continued until spring and delayed bud break by a few weeks. By June the weather had turned and the vines began to bloom.

In mid-July, a record-setting heat wave descended upon the entire country. The North Coast roasted for ten days, but with the crop a few weeks behind the historically normal cycle, there was almost no damage reported. In fact, most growers agree that the heat actually helped the vines “catch up” to levels found in a typical growing season. LIOCO’s meticulous growers went the additional step here and removed any clusters showing signs of sunburn. Seasonal (and somewhat cooler) weather returned in August. This mild weather pattern continued throughout September allowing for moderately paced and deliberate ripening. Many of our growers harvested during this period (Stuhlmuller, Michaud, Hirsch).

Cool weather dominated early October, with some rain coming in the first week. Those in Sonoma with fruit still on the vine faced the most Botrytis (a type of “Noble” rot) many had seen since 1989. The Botrytis resulted from a very wet spring and tighter clusters in which the rot could lie dormant until conditions were right. Here the proverbial men were separated from the boys. Those with balanced vineyard practices, a willingness to sacrifice, and a cool temperament were rewarded with clean, rot-free wines (reference Durell). Charles Heintz unsheathed his pruning sheers and reduced his crop by 60%. The whisper of botrytis remaining in his crop we welcomed as an added layer of complexity in the wine. Footnote: We further exploited this unique weather phenomenon and produced a late harvest, fully botrytised Chardonnay (to be released in January).

Ultimately, many tough decisions were made to ensure quality. We demanded last minute picking dates and the right to refuse any unclean lots of fruit. Without exception our growers stoically took the brunt of it. They worked harder and longer days. They pulled together picking crews. And they severely reduced their crop levels. This strident approach speaks to the pedigree of these farmers—that they would deliver us quality lots of fruit, or nothing at all. We are honored to work with such fine men and women who are committed to bringing the expression of their vineyard to bottle. What is in your glass is an authentic expression of each site as reflected by the 2006 growing season. We hope you enjoy it.

2006 CHARDONNAY SONOMA COUNTY

$20

At a glance: A clean and refreshing, yet rich and fruit-driven Chardonnay unencumbered by oak. Many comparisons made to a warm vintage Chablis.

No wine area in California has a more complicated mix of established viticultural areas than Sonoma County. At last count there were 13 AVAs, totaling 60,000 acres. Most of them are crowding upon one another, many of them overlapping. While this vast expanse unified under the “Sonoma County” designation possesses some similarities, a more localized approach is required to understand the individuality of each growing zone. As elsewhere in California, climate is a function of accessibility to Pacific coastal fog and resultant cloud cover.

The cooler part of Sonoma County--at the apex of the Russian River Valley, Alexander Valley, and Chalk Hill AVAs--has a terroir favorable to Chardonnay. Here, the vines and their unique character are shaped by the river, which channels cool maritime air and fog from the Pacific Ocean to the eastern boarder of Sonoma County. You will find “creek bed soil” here---or alluvial soils of sandy loam strewn with smooth river-stones . We seek vines growing in this rocky, mineral rich soil and planted where the cooling effects of the river will be exploited. We believe these elements conspire to create distinctive Sonoma County Chardonnay—full, rich varietal Chardonnay held taught by brisk acidity.

The 2006 Chardonnay “Sonoma County”, like all of our wines, was grown from the ground up. No purchased wine/juice was used. It was hand picked and sorted and naturally fermented in 100% stainless steel using a wild yeast. It underwent a natural malolactic fermentation, and was bottled without fining or filtration. The resulting wine, unencumbered by oak, captures the essence of Chardonnay. It smells of lemon blossoms, chamomile flowers, and crushed chalk. There are more lemons on the palate, only they’re creamy like fresh lemon curd. Accompanying this citrus quality is something overtly mineral like rock dust. This refreshing wine calls for sushi, moules frites, and Cantonese take out.

2642 cases produced

2006 CHARDONNAY DURELL

$40

At a glance: A wine showing classic Chardonnay character (a panoply of fruit and cleansing acidity) with added components of the vineyard (sun baked herbs and crushed stones). Immediately likable, charming even. Agreeable to a wide range of cuisine.

To make a wine of this pedigree in Carneros/Sonoma Valley in 2006 required a Herculean effort in the vineyard. Flatly stated, 2006 was a challenging vintage for Chardonnay growers. Rot was so prevalent that many growers (in particular the quality conscious ones) left much of their crop on the ground for the birds and squirrels to plunder.

Steve and Ned Hill, the father/son team behind Durell, handled the vintage with the sort of cool temperament brought only by decades of experience. The balance maintained in the vineyard throughout the year gave them healthy, happy vines heading into harvest and put them in the position to respond to the rain in September. They knew it was coming and that rot would likely follow. Their solution was a laborious technique called “leaf pulling.” With a crew of trained vineyard workers, the Hills relieved the vines of all of their foliage. A naked vine has a much better chance of fending off rot because of the reduced organic matter surrounding the grapes. It paid off. While many of their less fastidious neighbors had to harvest immediately following the rain (in advance of the impending rot) the Hills enjoyed a full 12 extra days of ripening. This is an eternity in the life of September grape vine, where sugars levels fluctuate by the hour. Our winemaker was awestruck by the consistency of the Durell fruit which required almost zero sorting. Every bunch that came in was clean!

So what does all of this mean? It means the elusive ‘savor of site’ comes through in the wine. That sense of place unique only to the Durell Vineyard. While much of Carneros is resigned to a rather pedestrian clay-loam based soil, the Durell Chardonnay is situated in a dried up river bed in soil strewn with cobble stones. There are roughly 300 acres of this wholly unique soil in all of Sonoma Valley. This high rock content infuses the wine with a varied mineral essence. This wine smells like the pits of white peaches, fresh key lime, and crushed chalk. The flavors mirror the aroma somewhat—more stone fruits, citrus peel, and something reminiscent of sun-baked, wild herbs. What we like about it is the balance and the purity. Is makes us think of summer, eating outdoors, and the bounty of the sea.

195 cases produced

2006 Chardonnay Charles Heintz

$45

At a glance: Chardonnay for hedonists. Somehow big and viscous without being heavy. Exotic aromas and flavors held taught by mouth watering acidity. One of a kind. Recalls a well appointed Alsatian Pinot Gris.

Situated within three prestigious wine appellations---Green Valley, Russian River Valley, and Sonoma Coast---the century-owned Heintz Ranch crowns the hills above the Victorian town of Occidental. It sits at an elevation of 1,000 feet in soft, sandy loam soil known locally as "Gold Ridge." Close proximity to the Pacific Ocean and a constant blanket of ocean fog means the Charles Heintz Vineyard is often one of the last Chardonnay vineyards to be harvested in Sonoma County. Accordingly, Heintz fruit delivers those long chains of flavors resulting only from extended hang time. It’s no secret among industry insiders that this vineyard is responsible for some of California's finest Chardonnays.

The site without question is a noble one, but what elevates this vineyard to greatness is the diligent effort made in the fields. The late-September rain squall set off a fire-storm of Botrytis in this region. Growers unprepared to meet these obstacles with vigorous work and a willingness to sacrifice produced marginalized wines. Charley’s meticulous approach throughout the year prepared the vineyard for a fight. Each vine was regarded individually and cared for by hand--from the season's first cane pruning to the final thinning of grape clusters. In the end, he paid the ultimate price and dropped 60% of the crop to the ground. Very few growers could (or would) take such a radical approach. But Charley is committed to excellence, and excellence is what he delivered to his fruit clients in 2006. Our winemaker, who was poised and ready on the sorting table, was shocked to find the entire 5-ton lot of chardonnay free of rot. “We literally picked out a leaf or two, and that was it. Charley did all the sorting work for us in the vineyard!”

The resultant wine is, in a word: opulent. What strikes first is the hue in the glass. The rich, amber color suggests the use of oak barrels (none were used). The perfume is on one-hand exotic and high toned recalling night blooming jasmine, ginger, and orange blossom. But there are deeper, bass-tones too--something overtly mineral, like wet slate and warm clover honey. The attack is mouth-coating, demonstrating the wine’s prowess through its sheer viscosity. Still, a vibrant acidity cuts through the honeycomb, candied ginger, and lemon peel flavors. This wine begs for cheese, like a soft washed rind, though its luxuriousness will be well suited to lobster with drawn butter.

332 cases produced

2006 INDICA

$20

At a glance: Bright, and lively on its feet. A wine of medium weight and moderate alcohol. Seductive and feminine with flesh in all the right places. Driven by Morello cherries, violets and freshly ground Moroccan spice. Reminds us of a young Dolcetto or a cru Beaujolais.

During the mid-1900’s, bucolic Mendocino County saw a steady stream of Italian, Swiss, and German immigrants. Perhaps it was the wide open spaces, rich soil, and relative privacy that appealed to these “new Americans” who had left agrarian Europe behind. They came with the frontier spirit common among the brave souls who weathered the long Atlantic journey. And thankfully, they came with grape vine cuttings from home.

Some of California’s earliest vines were planted in Mendocino County—in some cases more than a century ago. These immigrant farmers planted the hearty vines that thrived in low country Europe—things like Mourvedre, Alicante Bouchet, and Carignan. Modern tastes and the almost non-existent market for these varieties spelled eventual demise for these old vines. Most have long since been ripped out—supplanted by the omni-present Cabernet, Chardonnay, and Merlot.

But in Alvin Tollini’s vineyard, Carignan vines remain. This vineyard, planted in 1965 by Alvin’s grandfather Ray, will likely evade the plow indefinitely. Story goes—when Ray’s health was faltering, he called Alvin to his side. He told Alvin that after his passing, the vineyard would be left to him under one condition: that the Carignan, which Ray himself had planted, would never be ripped out. Alvin consented, Ray later passed on, and the vines endure!

Indica was perhaps an inevitable diversion from our Pinot Noir program. The wine was inspired by the egalitarian “everyday wines” of rural Europe—especially those found along the Mediterranean coastal regions of Spain and France. We love those medium weight, fruit-driven reds that make just about any plate of food taste better. Indica is just this type of wine. It is decidedly bright and lively. Morello cherries and violets seem to bound out of the glass. There is a freshly-ground-spice character too—like that found in a Moroccan stew. The palate meets with abundant blue and black fruits which are kept taught by lively acidity and gravelly tannins. This wine calls for sausages off the grill, or a slow-cooked meat on the bone.

1860 cases produced

WHERE TO FIND US

CALIFORNIA (LA) AOC Cut Rustic Canyon Sona BIN 8945 Bottle Rock Campanile Fraiche Restaurant Grace Lucques Mako Patina Restaurant Providence Spago The Hungry Cat Water Grill Wilshire Restaurant	CALIFORNIA (SF) Absinthe Bacar Restaurant Boulevard Brick Campton Place Hotel Coco 500 COI Delfina District Wine Lounge Ferry Plaza Wine Bar Gary Danko Green's Restaurant Michael Mina Myth NOPA Pres a Vie Quince	CALIFORNIA (OC/SD) Donovans El Bizcocho Hotel Laguna Jonathan's of La Jolla Market Restaurant Montage Resort and Spa Pamplemousse Grille Rancho Valencia Sorrento Grille Stonehill Tavern The Crosby

ARIZONA 56 East 98 South Bistro Bella Terra Bloom Canal Cowboy Ciao D-Vine Enchantment Hacienda del Sol L'Auberge Postino Rancho Pinot Reds Tarbell's The Asylum The Recovery Room Vintabla	NEW YORK Aureole BLT Fish BLT Prime Blue Ribbon Blue Water Grill Cafe Boulud Carlyle Hotel Craft Steak Gotham Bar &Grill Grayz Insieme Irving Mill Momofuku Ssam Bar Prune Town Tribeca Grill WD-50	COLORADO Cache Cache Capital Grill Del Frisco's Double Dish Flagstaff House Gusto La Tour Mateo Mizuna Sweet Basil Table 6 The Little Nell Hotel
* This is an abbreviated list of restaurant clients. For a complete list of all clients (including those in WA, OR, NV, TX, NM, TN, SC, OH, KT) please visit our website.

PARTING THOUGHT

We produce natural wines---wines that are very much alive. Like us, they may be susceptible to the rigors of travel. We recommend letting them “rest” for a few days after receiving them in the mail. We also strongly urge you to let the wines “breathe” prior to serving them. All wines--white, pink, and red--will benefit from air.

HOW TO GET SOME

Visit our website at http://www.liocowine.com to place your secure online order.