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green pear, star fruit, manzanita.
crushed rock, underbrush.
grilled sword fish, roasted crab, soft pungent cheeses.
VINIFICATION
hand harvested on oct. 03. severe triage performed. whole cluster pressed. cold fermented in stainless steel tanks (no oak) using a wild yeast. naturally occurring malolactic fermentation. 6-month fine lees contact. bottled without fining or filtration. 410 cases produced.
SITE
a biodynamic vineyard on situated on a remote, sun-scorched hilltop. arid, high-altitude exposures of 1600 ft. at the base of an extinct volcano (pinnacles national monument). daily temperature swings of 40-60° f. rare co-location of granite and limestone soils (from decaying marine organisms). extreme microclimate produces stressed vines and wines of unusual complexity.
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| 3.54 |
7.3 g/l |
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| 0.1 g/l |
23.2 |
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"(the chalone bench) has produced chardonnay and pinot noir with the conviction that burgundy's corton has somehow migrated west" suggests hugh johnson and jancis robinson in their seminal book the world atlas of wine. "burgundy, or more precisely limestone was the inspiration for planting vines here. the soil is right, the rainfall almost ruinously low."
few american viticultural areas (ava) anywhere occupy a more distinctive-or removed-location than the chalone ava. visiting this parched, mountainous territory on the way from soledad to nowhere-home to wild boars, coyotes, scorpions, and tarantulas-- one cannot help but wonder how grapes found a home in this improbable place. curtis tamm, a frenchman, has been credited with establishing the first vineyard on the chalone bench at the turn of the century. it is believed this eccentric emigrant was looking for just such a site-a high, hilly swath of rocky soil with a high concentration of limestone deposits (akin to those revered in burgundy).
the eastern skyline of the michaud vineyard is dominated by the mysterious pinnacles national monument, remnants of an old volcano born 28 million years ago. repeated volcanic eruptions sent the massive continental plate crashing into the pacific plate, which submerged by the pacific ocean for most of its life, acquired numerous limestone deposits from decaying marine organisms. it is today one of the few places on earth where granite and limestone are co-located, providing a well drained and mineral rich soil well suited to viticulture.
in addition to this wholly unique soil, there are myriad other factors conspiring to produce what is for us, the most site-driven wine in our portfolio. very low rain fall (12-15 inches annually), high altitude (1500'), and an extreme diurnal shift (40-60 degrees is common in summer) all play supporting roles. the michaud vineyard is farmed biodynamic, relying on a closed-loop organic system. accordingly, the fight for life is on. the abundant pests coupled with the extreme environmental factors result in very low grape yields (and thus very little juice).
and the wine…? let's just say if you are looking for an overtly fruited california chardonnay, this is not the wine. if you want to "taste stones and shake hands with a mountain" perhaps you're on the right track here. this wine, free of any oakiness, gives a clear translation of site. it is all about rocks and underbrush. there are hints of green pear and star-fruit in the nose, but the flavors are pure soil. of special note is the texture of this wine, which grips the palate and forces contemplation.
| kevin kelley |
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| now through 2010+ |
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