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| Charles Heintz |
Sonoma Coast |
Sonoma |
jasmine, citrus blossom, wet slate.
clover honey, ginger, lemon peel.
lobster, sautéed halibut, washed-rind cheeses.
VINIFICATION
hand picked on oct. 23rd and 26th. intensive hand-sorting performed. whole cluster pressed. cold fermented in stainless steel tanks (no oak) using a wild yeast. naturally occurring malolactic fermentation. 6-month fine lees contact. bottled without fining or filtration. 332 cases produced.
SITE
situated within three prestigious wine appellations-- green valley, russian river valley, and sonoma coast. elevation of 1,000 feet in soft, sandy loam soil known locally as "goldridge." proximity to pacific ocean and its constant fog creates a long, cool growing season. meticulous, labor-intensive farming methods (cane pruning, leaf pulling, green harvesting) produces even ripening and great intensity of flavors.
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| 3.58 |
7.4 g/l |
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| 0.01 g/l |
24.9 |
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situated within three prestigious wine appellations---green valley, russian river valley, and sonoma coast---the century-owned heintz ranch crowns the hills above the victorian town of occidental. it sits at an elevation of 1,000 feet in soft, sandy loam soil known locally as "gold ridge." close proximity to the pacific ocean and a constant blanket of ocean fog means the charles heintz vineyard is often one of the last chardonnay vineyards to be harvested in sonoma county. accordingly, heintz fruit delivers those long chains of flavors resulting only from extended hang time. it's no secret among industry insiders that this vineyard is responsible for some of california's finest chardonnays.
the site without question is a noble one, but what elevates this vineyard to greatness is the diligent effort made in the fields. the 2006 vintage perfectly illustrates this point. the challenges faced by the hill family at the durell vineyard in sonoma valley were magnified in the sonoma coast-an area cooler, wetter, and closer to the sea. the late-september rain squall set off a fire-storm of rot in this region. growers unprepared to meet these obstacles with vigorous work and a willingness to sacrifice produced marginalized wines. here is where the western sonoma coast resembles burgundy: the challenging vintages are what distinguish the marquis growers. it seems there is something about extreme difficulty that draws out the best in people (and vines).
charley's meticulous approach throughout the year prepared the vineyard for a fight. each vine was regarded individually and cared for by hand--from the season's first cane pruning to the final thinning of grape clusters. in the end, he paid the ultimate price and dropped 70% of the crop to the ground. very few growers could (or would) take such a radical approach. but charley is committed to excellence, and excellence is what he delivered to his fruit clients in 2006. our winemaker-who was poised and ready on the sorting table--was shocked to find the entire 5-ton lot of chardonnay free of rot. "we literally picked out a leaf or two, and that was it. charley did all the sorting work for us in the vineyard!"
the resultant wine is, in a word: opulent. what strikes first is the hue in the glass. the rich, amber color suggests the use of oak barrels (none were used). the perfume is on one-hand exotic and high toned recalling night blooming jasmine, ginger, and lemon blossoms. but there are deeper, base-tones too: something overtly mineral, like wet slate as well as a clover honey note. the attack is mouth-coating, demonstrating the wine's prowess through its sheer viscosity. still, a vibrant acidity cuts through the honeycomb, candied ginger, and lemon peel flavors. this wine begs for cheese, like a soft washed rind, though its luxuriousness will be well suited to lobster with drawn butter.
| kevin kelley |
332 |
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| now through 2010+ |
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