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This is rugged territory. Waves thrash the rocky headlands. The road rises abruptly as you move inland. Muscular outcroppings of rock protrude from the soil. Redwood trees nourished by ocean fog tower above the undulating hillsides. Then at about 800 feet in elevation, the sun emerges and casts an intense light.
The prestigious Hirsch Vineyard in the Sonoma Coast is located on a unique site atop the second ridge from the Pacific ocean. It is considered the epicenter of extreme coastal Pinot, due to its close proximity to the sea (a mere 3.5 miles), its extreme elevation ranging from 1100 – 1400 feet, and the fact that it sits on top of the North American coast’s most active seismic fault. David Hirsch arrived in the late 1970s and planted his first grapes in 1980. Hirsch Vineyards now has 47+ acres and 11 uniquely situated blocks planted mostly to Pinot Noir.
David Hirsch offers, “because of the collision of tectonic plates and earthquake faulting (the San Andreas fault runs between Hirsch Vineyards and Fort Ross), the area is a composite of all kinds of soils, rocks, rolling hills, sandstone, shales - just a hodge-podge of growing sites with sharp changes of weather from site to site and very dramatic climate working on a very heterogeneous site." While all of these factors contribute this site’s undeniable pedigree, David believes the single most influential element is the soil.
“There is something special about the wind and rain working the calcareous seabed material. Much of the rock there is low-grade shale which you can crush in your hand. It is in the final stage of erosion before turning to top soil. There are hundreds of thousands of years of conifer forest breaking down into the soil.” This essence of decomposing rock is what he believes you will taste in the wine.
Many “pinot-philes” regard David Hirsch’s vineyard to be California’s first legitimate Grand Cru Vineyard.
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